Although pet insurance might sound like an unfamiliar concept to you, it’s getting popular with every passing year. For example, the number of people that bought pet insurance in the UK increased from 2.8 to 3.8 million from 2013-2017, with about 2.1 million GBP being paid daily in insurance claims.

Rising vet bills in recent years have given popularity to insuring your pet. But before you jump in, there are some things you need to know to answer the main question: “Is insuring your husky puppy really worth it?”

Pet insurance basics

When shopping around for pet insurance you will come across some terms which are key to understanding and comparing insurance options:

• Recurring cost – which is your cost-per-month for insurance. Most insurers will offer a yearly payment option that offers a discount over the monthly rate.
• Deductible – known as the excess in some countries, this is the minimum amount in dollars that you contribute to a claim. If your deductible is $500 then you must pay the first $500 of a claim, regardless of whether your claim is for $550 or $5000, and regardless of the reimbursement rate.
• Reimbursement – this is usually presented as a percentage such as 80% and represents how much of the total bill you will get back from the insurer. So if the reimbursement is 80%, and the cost of treatment is $10,000, you will get a check from your insurer for $8000 if the claim was approved. Note that there might be different rates for different treatments so be careful.
• Maximum claim – You might be limited to a maximum amount (in dollars) claimable in the pet’s life, in a year, or even for a single accident or illness. You should look through the insurance policy fine print to find this information because it might not be presented upfront when shopping.
• Exclusions – Again you need to look at the fine print. These are the services or treatments not covered by insurance. Hereditary conditions are commonly excluded.

Pet insurance price differences

Many factors influence price differences between insurers. These include:

• Differences in deductible and reimbursement rates. Often you can tweak these numbers to lower your monthly insurance cost, such as raising the deductible.
• What services, treatments, and products are excluded.
• The breed and age of the dog: older dogs tend to cost more for insurance, and some breeds are more prone to injury or health issues than others.
• Your location.
• The insurer itself: their reputation, their costs, who underwrite them, and many other factors that you have no control over. Simply put: some insurers cost more than others, even for the same policy.

Unfortunately, when comparing pet insurance it is very difficult to compare options. It might help to draw up a chart (or use a spreadsheet) when comparing potential insurers, taking note of what each policy is offering. If you can reduce the policy features to just the ones you are interested in it will make it easier to narrow the choice down.

What to look out for when choosing pet insurance?

If you buy pet insurance, you’ll have to pay a monthly fee. But in case your Husky gets sick, the insurance company will pay for its treatment according to its terms and conditions. But we wish it would be as simple as it sounds. 

Pet insurance Exclusions are probably should be your biggest concern, and this information is likely to be in very fine print and not well advertised. Some typical exclusions include:

• Certain tests or diagnostics are not included.
• Pre-existing health conditions that the animal had prior to taking out insurance, whether or not you knew of those conditions.
• Hereditary issues with the breed. Common health problems with huskies such as hip dysplasia and eye issues may not be covered.
• Dental work may be totally excluded.
• Different treatments may have different rates of reimbursement, and even different deductibles.
• After-hours and weekend emergency care may be excluded.
• Choice of vet might also be an issue.
• The amount paid for specific treatments. Some policies have a schedule of treatments and payout amounts, which might be substantially less than what your local and trusted vet might charge you.

Furthermore, when making a claim on pet insurance, almost all insurers will require you to pay your vet first, and you claim the money back from the insurer. It is of little use to take out an insurance policy if you can’t obtain funds in a hurry to pay a bill. It may take a number of weeks for your insurer to accept your claim.

With so many variances between insurance policies, how can you expect to make the best decision?

How to choose the right pet insurer?

As with any insurer, the primary consideration is will they pay out if I make a claim?

You can and should talk to other Siberian Husky owners in your local club, or talk to your vet, or even dog-owning friends and relatives, to find out if they have made a claim and how easy or difficult it was. Search the internet for reviews of insurance policies – just be aware that you tend to only read about the horror stories, not the many thousands of successful claims that happen each year.

Price is also a factor to consider and balance off between the deductible and reimbursement rates. What price you are comfortable with depends on your own personal financial situation.

However, if you have 5 policies in front of you and 1 is abnormally cheaper than the others, you might want to try and figure out why. It could be some key features are missing. Similarly, if a policy is unusually expensive it could be there are features you may never need such as pregnancy care for a female pet.

Alternatives to pet insurance

If insurance seems expensive, and it can be especially if you have multiple pets, there are some alternatives you might want to consider:

Savings Fund

For some, the cost of pet insurance is too much, and they prefer to keep a savings fund for that ‘rainy day’. This can often work out cheaper than insurance. If your husky is kept in a secure yard all day, and when out is restrained and not let off-leash, then the chances of him or her being involved in an accident are quite low.

Furthermore, if you did your homework when selecting your puppy from a reputable breeder, who gave assurances as to the health of the animal, there is a good chance you will never incur any significant vet bill for the life of the dog.

There are two big problems with savings accounts that you need to be aware of:

1. It starts at $0. If your pet develops a problem early in life then the savings account is unlikely to cover all the bills. A pet insurance policy is likely to have a very short or no waiting period.
2. You have to be disciplined to keep topping it up, each and every week. If you forget, or can’t afford to keep depositing, then the fund may not be there when you most need it.

If you are already a disciplined saver then this option might work out for you.

Other fund types

There are lower insurance levels that cover injuries but not conditions, however as we just mentioned the chance of injury might be very low for your husky. Sometimes these policies are offered almost like a guilt trap if you can’t afford the full-priced policy, and offer little benefit to your dog.

Cheaper services

There might be lower-cost vet clinics in your area, possibly not-for-profit and/or tied to rescue organizations. Universities can also be looked into – some offer services cheaper in return for providing training for students (under supervision of course!).

Euthanasia

It might not be a popular option but it is one we need to mention. For some it might just make more sense to put your pet down instead of paying expensive vet bills, only to have the animal continue to live in discomfort.

Conclusion

Pet insurance is a booming industry – and is it any wonder with vet bills running into $100s or $1000s for a single incident? When shopping around take note of the deductible, the reimbursement, and especially the exclusions in the fine print that will affect your claim. So is it worth purchasing pet insurance for a husky puppy?

• If you can afford the monthly fees and have spare cash to pay the vet bills right away, and your husky might have some health issues, AND your insurer will pay out for these issues, then YES! Insurance could save you money.
• In all other cases, we suggest NO! You are better off saving money and accepting the risk. The general health of the Siberian Husky population is getting very good and if you take care of your pet, there is no reason he or she can’t live a long and happy life. You can always take out insurance later in life if your husky seems accident-prone, and spend the first few months saving for a rainy day.

Treats for your Siberian Husky are a great way to reward good behavior during training. However not all food is good for your puppy to snack on. Here we have a look at what is suitable for puppies and what to avoid.

As you know, puppies need food to grow. It is really important to feed your Siberian Husky puppy good quality food that promotes muscle and bone growth and provides the energy needed to exercise and play. Snacks are no different. Just like human snacks you want to avoid snacks that are high in fat, sugars, and calories. They might taste good (to the puppy!) but overall might be harmful to the health of your husky in the long run.

If purchasing treats from a store look for those with high meat content. Lower quality snacks are often cheaper because they have “filler”, typically a grain of some kind. The worst have high-fat content.

Snacks should be fed as a treat and not become part of normal feeding routines. Typically the only time you would feed your dog treats is to reward good behavior during training or playtime. If you start conditioning your puppy to accept snacks all the time they will become used to that behavior, and start pestering you between meals. See our article on Feeding Siberian Husky Puppies if you need some further advice on meals.

Store-bought snacks can be a bit pricey but there is a wide range of “human” foods that your puppy might take to:

• Plain rice and oatmeal.
• Unsalted pretzels, unsalted almonds, unsalted and unbuttered popcorn.
• Cut up an apple.
• Blueberries, strawberries, and other berries without pips.
• Bananas. Frozen bananas are a great treat.
• Seedless watermelon.
• Beans, carrots, and sweet potatoes.
• Peanut butter is ok as an occasional treat in a KONG Toy, but be aware of the high sugar and fat content.

It will require some experimentation to see what your Husky likes. Don’t be surprised if he likes food for one month, but goes off it the next. Huskies need some variety in flavors and textures in their food. You can also bake your own doggie treats – check out the Dog Treat Kitchen website for recipes that are easy and inexpensive.

There are some human foods NOT suitable for dogs, including chocolate, grapes, and avocado. We have some specific advice on these foods here.

When feeding treats you might want to cut or break them up into smaller pieces. Puppies only have small jaws, small tummies, and you can reduce intake by reducing the portion size. Don’t forget that during training there are many non-food rewards you can give as feedback, such as pats, rubs, scratches, positive words, and playtime with favorite toys. Try different things and see what works best for you and your dog!

Dogs have special dietary requirements to keep them healthy. Some foods are likely to lead to discomfort, and others are downright deadly. Here are six foods you should avoid feeding your Siberian Husky. This is particularly important in the puppy stage where their smaller mass and less developed immune system can result in more serious and faster effects.

1. Milk and some dairy goods

Although some dogs are fine with milk and dairy, and others can tolerate a small amount, you generally should avoid feeding milk products to dogs. This is because dogs lack a digestive enzyme named lactase, which breaks down the lactose sugars present in dairy foods.

Foods to avoid are milk, ice cream, and more than 10% fat yogurt. Problems after ingestion can include bloating, gas, diarrhea, and other symptoms of an ‘upset tummy’. Accidental and small intake of milk and dairy is unlikely to lead to anything serious and life-threatening, but you wouldn’t want your Husky to be continually upset, would you?

Healthy Alternative:

At online pet stores, you can buy special ‘puppy milk’, which has much less lactose and is safe to feed animals. It’s a great treat and healthy for younger puppies to get calcium to help build strong, healthy bones.

2. Chocolate

Everyone loves chocolate, right? Well, dogs might love it too, but it is a big ‘NO NO’ to feed anything chocolate to them. This includes chocolate bars (even just a nibble), cookies, brownies, cocoa drinks, licking the beaters after mixing a cake… anything with a chocolate component.

The caffeine and theobromine chemicals present in chocolate are very toxic to dogs. The darker the chocolate, the more cocoa content, and hence more toxic.

Ingestion can cause a wide range of issues including vomiting, excessive thirst, general discomfort, abdominal discomfort, heart rhythm issues, tremors, high temperatures, and so on. Seizures and death are at the extreme (but not unlikely) end of the scale.

You need to be particularly attuned during holiday seasons when chocolate poisoning cases go up; Easter, Halloween, Christmas, Valentine’s Day, etc. These are days where we are more likely to have chocolate lying around the house, on a coffee table, or in a bag.

3. Grapes and Raisins

It isn’t fully understood why grapes and related products (raisins, currants, etc) are a problem for dogs but can lead to serious issues such as kidney failure. Some dogs are fine with these products, others are not. Worse is the symptoms can be delayed from 12 hours to a few days.

Initial symptoms of poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, and general lethargy. Over the next few days, kidney failure might occur, or long-term kidney disease develops over time.

Don’t forget that cakes, cookies, cereals, and snacks (such as muesli bars or trail mix) often have grape products in them. It isn’t just raw grapes that can cause issues.

4. Alcohol

All types of alcohol should be avoided; beer, wine, spirits, mixed drinks, cocktails, egg nog, etc. Because of their size and metabolism, dogs are more sensitive to alcohol than humans. Puppies are especially vulnerable. Like excessive consumption by humans, dogs will experience vomiting, coordination, and disorientation issues, and in extreme cases, coma and death.

Remember that you might not feed your dog alcohol, but if they go sniffing around the house when you aren’t looking they might just come across it themselves, so keep those drinks locked up!

If you find your husky has consumed alcohol then (again, like humans), watch him carefully until they start to feel better. If your dog is so inebriated they can not stand up and move about, then seek expert guidance from your vet or animal emergency room.

5. Onions and Garlic

This family of foods includes onions (all kinds), garlic, shallots, scallions (spring onions), chives, and other related herbs and bulbs in the allium family of plants. These contain thiosulfates which are a toxin to dogs when ingested in quantity.

Don’t forget that many packet foods such as soups, spice mixes, and powders contain dried versions of garlic and onion. Onion has a high concentration is of most concern. The thiosulfates damage red blood cells in the dog’s cardiovascular system, leading to lethargy, weakness, and difficulty after even mild exercise. The effects can take a few days to set in so it might not be immediately apparent what has caused the change in behavior.

In the case of suspected poisoning, a trip to the vet is essential to get your Husky checked out and medical options explored. If you get on top of the problem quickly you can avoid worsening the effects, and get the help your dog needs to recover.

6. Avocado

Avocado is an unusual food in that different varieties have different levels of toxicity, and some animals simply don’t feel the effect of it at all. However, you should still avoid avocado to be on the safe side. The toxin is named Persin and can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, and generally an upset tummy. In greater doses, some worsening respiratory and heart issues can develop, even death.

If the intake is small (a bit of flesh) then watch your Husky closely to see if he or she displays any adverse effects. For large ingestion of avocado, you should seek advice. Of particular note is the pip (stone) in the avocado: ingestion of that can lead to significant obstruction problems in the intestinal system and requires immediate professional attention.

What if my Husky ingests one of these Foods?

Head straight down to your vet or animal medical center. They can administer treatment to help get your dog healthy again. If nothing else you can live knowing you did all that was possible to save your Husky (and more than likely it will survive if you act quickly).

Conclusion

Pay attention to what you are feeding your Husky, especially if they are getting leftovers or if food is lying around. The best thing, of course, is to feed your Husky proper dog food which is safe, affordable, and has many nutritional benefits suited to animals. 

Milk, chocolate, grape, onions, and alcohol products all should be avoided for the lifetime of your Husky, and particularly at the puppy stage of life. You should stick to regular dog food in various forms and textures to provide some variety: dry kibble, wet food, raw meat, and doggie treats. Don’t forget to lock up your kitchen cabinets or keep your Siberian Husky out of the kitchen. Bored huskies will open anything that can be opened and investigate. Sooner or later they will find something they shouldn’t be eating and will not know any better. So keep your Husky away from human food!

Even if you don’t plan on traveling much with your Husky, the chances are you still need to get the puppy home from the breeder, to and from the vet, and occasionally out to a larger park or beach to run around. Here are our top ten tips for safe and healthy travel with your Siberian Husky:

1. No food beforehand

Avoid feeding your Husky two hours before travel. This should give time for the food to digest and not swirl around in the tummy. If your dog does get sick (and husky puppies are especially prone to car sickness) there will be less mess to clean up if they vomit (throw up).

2. Carry cleaning gear

When your Husky has an accident (toilet or vomit) it pays to be prepared to clean it up quickly, efficiently, and without fuss. You will need a paper towel, bath towels or blankets, plastic bags, wet wipes, and some basic cleaning gear to get the job done.

3. No roaming

Secure that Husky! We all see dogs in cars jumping around, heads out the window, barking at other motorists. That’s irresponsible and dangerous. In an accident, the dog becomes a pinball that bounces around – causing all sorts of terrible injuries. So, secure your dog down. This also helps calm the dog because there is less opportunity to get hyped up.

4. Use a crate or belt

Safety belts have the advantage of securing dogs down very well – so that it is little or no movement possible in the event of an accident. If you go this way then make sure the belt is made out of very strong material because your Husky is likely to get bored during travel and start chewing.

Dog crates are a popular alternative and although offer some movement, are a lot more secure than no restraint at all. When purchasing a crate lookout for these qualities:

1. Large enough so that your Husky (both now, and as it grows larger) can get up and turn around.
2. Quality, sturdy, construction that will last the bumps and movements that come from travel, carrying it in and out of the car regularly.
3. Construction that is chew-proof when your dog is inside.
4. A stable base. You might need to further tie the crate down to stop movement on the floor so look for anchors and methods to tie these straps in to.
5. Strong and doggy-proof latches. Siberian Huskies are known for being escape artists – just check out this video.
6. Ease of cleaning, especially on the road where you might not have a hose available.

Some vans and SUVs have a trunk section that can be caged off from the passenger section. This is better than having the dog on the front seat but you might still want to consider securing him or her further, depending on how large the area is.

Whatever you choose to do you will probably need blankets or mats under the dog – to trap the doggie hair and also any accidents. I got this one on Amazon – BarksBar Luxury Pet Car Seat Cover and it works pretty well for our Ford-F150.

5. Stay cool

If your Husky is out the back of your car or van there might not be a lot of ventilation back there. So open up windows or turn the fans on and blow air down that way. Sitting in front of a window on a sunny day can get quite warm so you might need the A/C on as well.

6. Never leave the dog alone

You would never leave a child unattended in a car and a dog is no exception. Even if you crack the windows open this is rarely enough to stop the heat, let alone provide adequate ventilation.  Hopefully, you have someone who can stay by the car and supervise. Open the trunk or tailgate to let more air through when the car is stationary.

7. Plan entries and exits

How are you going to get your Husky in and out of the car, safely, and on a leash? Unless you have two strong individuals it might not be possible to lift a dog crate in and out of each stop. Work out the process of getting your dog up into the car and into a safe position. For exit, you need to work out how you will get the leash onto your dog safely before it has a chance to jump out of the car and run.

8. Keep calm

Just like children, a lot of noise, uncomfortable movements, and unnecessary commotion can distress dogs. If an incident happens such as an unexpected toilet stop or travel sickness there is no need to make a big fuss about it. Clean up and carry onwards.

9. Frequent stops

Also like children, Huskies can get bored in the car. It is their nature. Pullover every hour and give your dog a bit of water and a walk around. You might have to bring along a bowl and water if there is none along the way. Of course, if your Husky is sleeping then push through and enjoy the journey!

10. Have a plan B

If you are heading quite a distance away from home, have you thought about what will happen to your Husky if your car breaks down? Check your auto association or mobile mechanic to see if they cover pet retrieval. Also, consider what if your dog really doesn’t like traveling? You might want to think about the possibility of taking it slow and easy, even if that means breaking the journey up over two days.

Not all dogs like travel and car travel especially can be disruptive and dangerous. We hope these pointers help you and your Siberian Husky travel safely and in good health.

Siberian Huskies were bred as working dogs – pulling sleighs and assisting hunters. It is no surprise that they need space, but how much space? And can they survive in a smaller environment with little yard space?

The primary concern is not so much space they have, but rather how much exercise they receive. Here you can check, that Huskies can live in apartments given enough outdoor time for exercise and play. The physical and mental stimulation they crave is most important. It is not uncommon for Siberian Husky owners to exercise their adult dog for 2 hours a day, and that’s on top of playtime as well! No matter how large or small your yard is, if you can’t spend the time exercising and entertaining your dog then perhaps a Husky is not for you.

Also important is the security of your yard. Huskies are known for escaping and given the chance will try to jump and climb fences, or dig underneath. Fences need to be high, and also buried in the ground. Latches and bolts need to be secured or the dog will find a way to open them.

If left alone a Husky might become bored. This could be a problem if the dog is indoors, and will probably resort to tearing apart furniture and pushing objects around just to keep him/herself entertained.

Because Siberian Huskies are pack animals they go really well with another canine companion. Two Huskies will play with each other some of the days and reduce the tendency to become bored and destructive. Don’t forget double the dogs could mean double the trouble, vet bills, food, and toys!

Whatever you do you can not let a Siberian Husky roam the neighborhood, even if you are out in the country. Huskies like to run and will take off after smaller animals if given the chance. When exercising and walking your Husky you are likely going to have to leave it on a leash all the time.

So if you only have a small yard fear not, a Husky can and will survive, but it is up to the responsible owner to provide the exercise and stimulation needed every day of the Husky’s life.

Microchipping is the process of implanting a very small electronic tracking device into a dog, for the purposes of identification should the animal ever go missing. Microchipping can increase the chances of your lost pet being reunited up to 5 times! It is so effective that in some places around the world microchipping is mandatory. Even if it isn’t required in your state, it is a very wise idea to get your Husky puppies microchipped. Whereas collars and tags can come off or be removed, the chip stays under the skin of the dog permanently.

Chip Insertion

The microchip itself is very small – around the size of a grain of rice. It is implanted with a needle in to the loose skin on the back of a dog’s neck. The dog feels little pain and does not require any anesthetic. It is not unlike getting a vaccination, and typically at the first vaccination, a puppy receives this would be an ideal time to get microchipped. It is a very safe and extremely common procedure that any vet can administer.

Cost

Microchipping should not cost more than $50 for insertion and activation of the tracking number. Some local councils, agencies, and shelters will do it for as low as $15. There is a chance that if you are adopting your Siberian Husky from a shelter, or purchasing from a breeder, the chip has already been implanted for you. Be sure to ask when you pick up your dog so that they can help you update the tracking information.

Tracking

Microchipping uses a very small electric device that is known as an ‘RFID’ tag. This is not a GPS device. You are not able to look up your pet’s current location on a map! However, the RFID will emit a number back to a scanning device (similar to a handheld barcode scanner) and that number can be used to retrieve information on various microchip registers. Registers include Anibase, RFID-USA, Microchip ID Systems, and others.

If there are multiple registers how do you know which one your Husky is registered at? Shelters and pounds will check as many registers as they can to find the owner. When the chip is inserted the vet probably has a preferred register that is well recognized in the local area.

Just remember to update your details with the register should you ever relocate your pet. Often this is as simple as updating details on a website or giving them a call. They will need to know where you live and what phone number to call you on should your pet ever be retrieved without a collar and tag.

Is it safe to microchip a dog?

Yes. With millions of pets chipped safely each year you shouldn’t need to worry about any ill-effect. The chips do not raise any allergic reactions, cause any new allergic sensitivities, or cause any tumors or cancers.

Even if your Husky is confined to a yard and never let off-leash, you should still get him or her microchipped. The cost is minimal and the benefits are valuable. You never know when that lead will break in your park, or your Houdini Husky puppy will find its way out into the street. Still unsure? Check out this ABC News video of a Husky that ended up hundreds of miles from home, but still reunited thanks to microchip identification.